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This marks pumpkin season and my favourite season, not least for all the curries and other hearty meals of fall. Today's Rajasthani stir-fry is one I cook often, and the combination of ginger, chili and jaggery gives it a wonderful flavor harmony. The biryani, meanwhile, is packed with aromatic spices, basmati and ghee, which give so much more flavour to the strata of grains and produce.

Squash and Mushroom Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes begins around October 6, so what better way to celebrate than with a flavorful, comforting, all-in-one-pot layered rice dish? If you like, prepare the vegetable curry component in advance and assemble all components on the occasion you want to serve.

Prep 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Yields 4

For the vegetable curry base
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, slit open lengthways
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cut into bite-sized pieces
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

Rice preparation
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

Biryani assembly
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

Begin by preparing the curry base. Melt the clarified butter in a sizable, heavy-based saucepan on a moderate flame, add the cumin seeds, bay leaves and cloves, and fry for a brief moment. Stir in the sliced onion and sauté, frequently turning, for 30-35 minutes, until softened. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a plate and reserve (you'll use them later during the assembly).

Add the green chillies and ginger to the remaining onions, cook for a minute, then mix in the tomato puree, chilli powder, turmeric and coriander, and sauté for a short while. Reduce to a gentle flame, blend in the yogurt and cook for two minutes.

Add the squash and mushroom halves, stir to coat in the spices, then fry for several minutes. Pour in the liquid, and add salt to taste. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover and cook gently for about twenty minutes, stirring once halfway to ensure no sticking to the base of the pot. Sprinkle with fresh cilantro, then remove from the stove.

Preheat the oven to moderately hot temperature. Rinse the basmati, then put it in a pot with a quart of water and the bay leaves, cardamom and salt. Heat to boiling, cook for 10-12 minutes, until partially cooked, then drain.

To build the layered dish, put a spoonful of melted ghee in a oven-safe dish for which you have a secure cover. Spoon half the spiced vegetables, then layer with some the cooked grains. Sprinkle half the saffron infusion, ginger strips, mint leaves, ground cardamom and garam masala, then add the caramelized onions. Layer with the rest of curry mixture, then arrange the leftover grains. Top with the remaining ghee, saffron water, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and spice mix.

Cover with baking paper, place lid securely, then bake on the middle shelf of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so the aromas soak into the grains. Remove of the oven, allow to stand, keeping covered, for 10 minutes, then lift off the cover and serve with yogurt sauce and salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Pumpkin with Spice Blend Sauté)

The Hindi term "pickling style" refers to flavouring a preparation using pickling spices, and the mix includes mustard, fennel seeds, fenugreek seeds, cumin, hing and kalonji, but their use extends beyond in preserved foods. This mixture also appears in various types of spiced dishes and stir-fries, like this recipe.

Preparation 10 min
Cook 30 min
Yields 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or substitute with brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard seeds, fenugreek and fennel in a spice grinder, roughly grind, then set aside. Put the oil in a spacious skillet or Indian wok on a medium heat. Add the ground spices and the hing, and sauté, stirring, for a few seconds. Mix in the ginger, fry for a short while, then stir in the pumpkin pieces, chilli and turmeric, and sauté, tossing, for several additional minutes.

Add 50ml liquid to the pot, salt with salt to taste and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the flame, and leave to cook for 20 minutes, mixing midway through. Add the palm sugar, crushing some of the pieces a bit, then add the mango powder, stir well and serve warm with chapatis or naan.